In Grande Prairie, winter doesn’t arrive politely. One week you’re rinsing mud off boots; the next, the Peace Country drops to −25°C and a chinook blows through two days later. That whiplash is when weak fittings split, hose bibs crack, and hydronic systems air‑lock. An hour of focused prep in October is often the difference between a calm season and a 2 a.m. mop‑up. Here’s a practical checklist we use on service calls—no fluff, just the tasks that prevent damage.
If you prefer a pro to handle the prep, explore our Residential Plumbing and Heating services or our Commercial Plumbing and Heating for larger facilities.
Find and tag your main shutoff
Trace the water line as it enters the building and test the valve. If it’s stiff or weeps, note it for replacement. Tag the valve so family or staff can find it fast. In older bungalows and farm properties, shutoffs may sit in crawlspaces; condo owners should also know the building shutoff location and after‑hours protocol.
If your main valve is seized or weeping, book Maintenance & Repair to replace it before the first deep freeze.
Disconnect and drain exterior lines
Remove garden hoses and quick‑connects so frost‑free hose bibs can drain. For older non‑frost‑free taps, close the interior stop, open the exterior, and drain the line. Irrigation systems need a proper blow‑out—compressed air at safe pressure, not just “letting it run.”
Insulate risk runs and use heat tape wisely
Prioritize pipes in garages, north walls, and under sinks on exterior walls. Add foam sleeves and keep vanity doors open during cold snaps. If you use heat tape, choose a CSA‑approved, thermostatic cable on a GFCI outlet, never overlap it, and follow the manufacturer’s spacing. Avoid unknown tape on plastic piping.
Keep hydronic systems reliable
Check boiler pressure cold (typically 12–20 psi) and verify the expansion tank isn’t waterlogged. Bleed air at purge points; gurgling or cold sections often mean trapped air, not a bad pump. If you run glycol, test concentration and pH. With radiant floors, use gentle setbacks—deep overnight drops can create long, chilly recoveries when it’s −30°C. If it’s been a year, book a tune‑up: combustion check, venting, condensate neutralizer, and safety controls.
If you’re considering upgrades or new design, see our hydronic heating systems and custom boiler design & installation pages.
Tame hard water before it eats efficiency
Peace Country hardness builds scale in heaters and mixing valves. Drain a bucket from the water heater to flush sediment, and consider anode inspections every 3–5 years. A scaled heater runs hotter, costs more, and fails sooner. Keep thermostats sensible (49–54°C) and use mixing valves to prevent scalding.
Test sumps and backwater protection
Lift the float to cycle the pump; listen for a clean start and the check valve “thunk.” Confirm the discharge won’t ice up where it exits. A slight air gap prevents siphoning back. If you have a backwater valve, pop the lid and ensure the flapper swings freely—lint and grit can stop it just when you need it.
Need help testing or replacing a check/backwater valve? Our Maintenance & Repair team can service it before spring runoff.
If something freezes (or bursts)
Skip open flames. Shut the main, open the lowest taps to depressurize, and turn off power or gas to the water heater. Move valuables, place towels, and take photos for insurance. Warm the area with safe, gentle airflow and call for help. The sooner the line is thawed and repaired, the less drywall you’ll replace.
Want a one‑hour winterization visit from Everlast? We’ll tag shutoffs, protect risk runs, and tune hydronics before the first deep freeze. Contact us to book.